25 Reasons Why I Love Tehran

Updated: 8 July 2019

I’m always surprised by the number of people who completely dismiss Tehran. “It’s polluted, it’s crowded, there’s nothing to see, it’s a tough city.” I was even warned against moving here: “Tehran is a wolf! It’ll eat you alive!” I don’t care what anyone says- Tehran is beautiful! There’s plenty to see and do, and it’s more like a wolf pup. I absolutely love it.

But when they ask me exactly why I love Tehran, I’m stumped. I could easily rattle off 100 reasons that drive me crazy about Tehran (and Iran in general), but in that very moment, I can’t think of not one single reason as to why I do like it. I just know that I do. So I decided to let it marinate. I pondered it, determined to find an answer- 25 to be exact (25 was chosen randomly). I wanted to label the little, everyday details that have completely charmed me. A lesson in seeing the positive, perhaps. I don’t know what it was, but eventually, I reached my 25. They may be simple things, silly even. But they are the little things that make me smile and think, ah yes, that’s one of the reasons why I love Tehran. Reasons why I breathe a sigh of relief when I return to this urban jungle after a trip and think, I’m home. So here they are- my 25 reasons why I love Tehran (alternate title: A Love Letter to Tehran).

(Brew a cup of Persian tea and settle in, azizân. This is a long one.)

Lalezar Street

To the untrained eye, it’s nothing more than a street full of dilapidated buildings and lamp stores. But for me, each one of these buildings tells a story. Since I dedicated a whole blog post to it last year, I won’t rehash the details. Suffice it to say that the love must have come through in my writing because it was chosen as one of the best blog posts of the month by Lonely Planet.

Nostalgic cafes

There are tons of trendy cafes in Tehran, but the ones that will shoot an arrow into your heart are the ones that scream nostalgia. Among my favorites? Cafe Orient, an Armenian cafe and one of the oldest in Tehran that serves a no-nonsense cup of coffee with a side of chocolate-covered orange rind. There’s also that [clean] hole-in-the-wall whose name I don’t even know next to the Enghelab metro entrance. What I do know is that I can’t leave Enghelab Square without popping in for a sweet piroshki while I admire the old photos of the square and vintage ads. Classic always trumps trendy.

Theater and plays

The theater scene in Tehran is one you should not miss. There are countless theaters around town that put on amazing shows. Among my favorites have been interpretations of Woody Allen or Neil Simon plays and an original play of vignettes based entirely around gum. Talk about creative!

There have even been some innovative shows like a reading of Woody Allen in English or English stand-up comedy. It’s not easy putting yourself out there and trying something new (especially with a hard-to-please audience that you know is going to walk out of there gossiping, “Vaaaaaaaay chi bood?!”– OMG, what WAS that!?). I applaud the ones who do.

Metro vendors

If you’ve ridden the metro in Tehran, you know that you can buy anything- gum, phone chargers, selfie sticks, gummy bears, kitchen sponges, jewelry, lipstick, mascara, scarves, pants, socks, bras. If you’re new to the scene, it’s entertaining. It starts with a “Khânumhâye golam…” (“my dear ladies”, literally “my flower ladies”) to get your attention, and then the pitch comes. I’m always amazed to see women wiggling mascara wands though their lashes like professional make-up artists or creating swatches of lip liner on their hands in search of that perfect shade of zereshki (barberry-colored)- all on a moving train.

For seasoned metro commuters like myself, however, you get to know their stories, and the entertainment factor is replaced with a heavy heart. Nevertheless, I hold tremendous respect for these people who spend their days underground trying to earn a living. And I can’t ever seem to leave the metro empty-handed. I like to support them, even if it’s just buying a pack of gum or tissues- which always come in handy!

The mountains

Tehran is surrounded by massive mountains, which in my opinion add a soothing effect to the city’s hustle and bustle. There’s something calming about looking at them, sitting there quietly with their imposing stature. There’s a point around the National Library towards the center of town where you have a great view of northern Tehran. It’s at this exact spot where the mountains appear even more commanding than usual- intimidating even- completely dwarfing the high rises. To me, it’s a point where I see man-made structures trying to compete with nature and think to myself ghorbun khodâ beram (“Let me sacrifice myself for God”, as we say in Persian).

Valiasr Street

The spine of Tehran. My personal compass. One of the few streets that actually welcomes walking. Each section has something different to offer, and arguably one of the best is the section from Parkway to Tajrish Square where you’re under a canopy of plane trees with more stories to tell that their trunks could possibly produce paper for. If only they could talk.

Graffiti and murals

And I’m not talking about the former US Embassy. That’s so 40 years ago! I’m talking about the works by cool local artists- like the caveman-like painting of Mirzaa, the face stencils of Shoatir, or the social commentary of MAD or Black Hand. Basically finding any kind of graffiti is the highlight of my day. The officially commissioned murals of works by Iranian artists have also beautified the sidewalls. In Tehran, every wall is but a canvas.

Signs of humanity

Some say Tehran is a tough city, and to that I say, well, it’s a big city. Like any other megacity and capital, the pace of life is faster in Tehran and sometimes the people a little crankier. But for every annoying thing that happens, there’s something to not only balance it, but also restore my faith in humanity. Like the time the taxi driver got fined for not wearing his seatbelt and all of us chipped in to help him pay it off (full story on my Instagram post below). Actually, there have been many such instances. I think I’ll have to dedicate a separate post to it.

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A few days ago, I got in a shared taxi from Parkway Bridge and the driver was quickly pulled over for not wearing his seatbelt. The officer made him get out and present his documents. One of the passengers got the officer's attention. "Khaste nabâshid, sir. Go easy on him. It's hot, and he's doing his best." "I know, but he's gotta wear his seatbelt," the policeman replied. 🚓 While he was out, the other passengers kept talking about why Iranians don't like to fasten their seatbelts. They even made some references to foreigners who come here and fasten their seatbelts, even in the back! "It's so normal for them. It's interesting," one of them said. 🚕 The driver was fined and when he got back in, the same gentleman said, "You know the policeman only did that for your own good. Why don't you fasten your seatbelt, good man!?" "It's hot and I was sweating," he said. "Otherwise I swear I'm a good driver." "So did he fine you 20,000 tomans?" (~$5) "Yes." 🚖 The passenger pulled out 5,000 tomans to help pay for the ticket and after a bit of târof (the driver taking responsibility for his actions), he finally accepted the money. Following his good example, the rest of us also chipped in, and he was very grateful. 🚖 The conversation quickly turned political as conversations usually do in Iranian taxis, with rather opposing views within the confines of the car. Finally the driver said, "You know I had a teacher once who told me that 'Everyone is innately good, but some are just better.'" 🎭 With everything that's going on in today's world, it's easy for me to sometimes lose faith in humanity. But it's simple acts of kindness like this that are able to restore it for me. And I remember the words of the driver that everyone is innately good. Maybe we just forget that sometimes. _________________________________ #mypersiancorner_diary . . . #tehran #iran #taxistories #irantravel #irangardi #blogger #iranblogger #iranaks #iranshots #tehranphoto #tehranpic #tehrangardi #mustseeiran #tehrantaxi

A post shared by Pontia @ My Persian Corner (@mypersiancorner) on Sep 18, 2017 at 10:40am PDT

Old doors

I have an obsession with old doors. I stare at them and imagine who lived behind them, what words were exchanged, what secrets were whispered, what arguments were had, what occasions were celebrated. I wonder when that door became buried in the asphalt, unable to be opened anymore. By more importantly, why did they one day decide to neglect that door? This is the silent commentary that runs through my head as I take out my phone and snap a shot.

Street art and sculptures

You’ll notice sculptures all throughout Tehran: in the parks, on the streets, and along the highways. I love the fact that they even manage to spice up seemingly ordinary objects, like electricity boxes or stairs, by adding a bit of Persian flavor.

Trees in the middle of the street

In most places, these trees would be considered a road hazard. But I appreciate the way that in Tehran they are not cut down. Instead, the bottoms are painted or signs are placed around them, and it’s basically your job to see them and divert.

Shared taxis

Besides being budget-friendly, I love the conversations that take place in shared taxis. Iranians are a chatty bunch, and they inevitably find a reason to strike up a conversation with one another. Though I don’t often participate myself, I learn a lot about my people during these rides. 

Street names

Unlike U2’s Where the Streets Have No Name, Tehran is a city where the streets have TOO MANY names. It’s a wonder you can find anything at all. There’s the pre-Revolution name, the post-Revolution name, and in many cases, there’s what people actually call it. Take Nelson Mandela Blvd, for instance. Sure, the sign says Nelson Mandela. So does Google Maps, in fact. But if you’re driving on the highway, you need to follow the signs for Afriqa Blvd. And if you ask anyone, please call it by what locals call it- Jordan.

30 Tir Street

Speaking of street names, when I took my dad to 30 Tir Street, he was racking his brain trying to remember the pre-Revolution name. “Ghavam al Saltaneh! I’m sure that was it.” We passed by a man smoking a cigarette who confirmed that my dad was indeed correct. I’m all for this name change because 30 Tir is much easier (and shorter) to pronounce.

It was initially the cobblestone street that captivated me. Then it was the history and culture, and then the food trucks rolled in to satisfy my belly. Check out more about 30 Tir street here.

The charming alleys

When I say “alley” in English, I think of a narrow space between buildings full of dumpsters and trash and a potential spot to get mugged or held at gunpoint. However, when I say the Persian equivalent kucheh, I think of a residential area off the main street. A place where you’ll find kids playing with a double-layer plastic red and white striped ball. Of course, some are only narrow enough for one person. Others have gutters in the middle where water can flow. Regardless, there’s something about kucheh paskucheh (backstreets) that call out to you, and you know you’ll find something magical down each one. 

Jom’e Bazaar

My happy place. Every Friday, the parking garage of Parvaneh Shopping Center turns into a flea market. The first couple of floors are a treasure trove of antiques sold by grumpy old men who mutter prices in between conversations with their equally grumpy neighbors. Other floors have manteau, scarves, rugs, home furnishings, and jewelry and handicrafts made by local artists. Shopping can easily turn into a half day event, so there’s plenty of good food and drinks to fuel up.

Crows and doves

If a bird were to represent Tehran, it would be a black crow. Maybe that’s why Sam Cafe uses it as their logo. I’ve grown to love the crows here and no longer see them as ominous, but rather a symbol of the city I love.

And a bird that I have fond memories of is the dove. Growing up, we called them moosâ koo taghi because that’s what it sounds like they’re saying when they coo. When I hear them now, I’m transported back to my single-digit ages, when we used to sleep on the roof of my aunt’s house and wake up to this soothing sound in the morning. (I think Tehranis call moosâ koo taghi something different. My mom’s side of the family is from Khorasan province, and that’s what they called them there.)

Sightings of Mt. Damavand

The first time I saw Mt. Damavand (Iran’s highest peak) was in Polur on Haraz Road on the way to the north. There she was with the typical halo of clouds circling her peak.

I had heard rumors about being able to see Damavand from Tehran but chalked it up to typical Iranian exaggerations. Much to my surprise, however, a few days after the snow storm this past winter, I spotted her from Shahrak-e Gharb, a sight that stopped me dead in my tracks: there she was, blanketed in snow. It wasn’t a rumor after all! I saw her again from the top of my street on an especially clear day in the spring. Given that it’s such a rare sight, it’s truly a treat!

The Christmas market

When Christmas rolls around, I start to feel a little homesick. Growing up, we always had a tree and celebrated because my parents didn’t want us to feel left out as the only kids in Alabama who didn’t celebrate Christmas. So I make it a point to stroll through Mirzaye Shirazi Street in the Armenian neighborhood around that time to get my fix of Santa, trees, lights, decorations, and anything else related to Christmas. I feel much better afterward.

Highs and lows

Tehran is delbâz (literally, “open-hearted”), meaning that it’s vast and open and airy (I hear some of you laughing at the word “airy”). It’s hilly with high points and low points so that I don’t feel closed off or suffocated [or depressed] like I do in some other cities in Iran (I’m looking at you, Mashhad).

Streetside prayers

It gives me an enormous sense of inner peace when I see men (usually taxi drivers) roll out their prayer rug and pray on a small plot of grass right there next to the highway, in the midst of all the traffic and honking. I can’t help but smile.

Southern Tehran

There’s a negative connotation when people talk about southern Tehran, calling it pâeen shahr (downtown). If you say someone is from pâeen shahr, they are from a totally different economic class than someone who lives bâlâ shahr (uptown)- who are basically the wealthy.

But this is all nonsense to me. I will take pâeen shahr any day. All day, every day. To me, this area is the beating heart of Tehran. It has character, it has soul, it has down-to-earth people, it has positive energy. I could be having a crappy day, and you plop me in the middle of District 12 (really anywhere from Enghelab Square to the south), and it’ll recharge my batteries. When I need a reminder of why I love Tehran, I head pâeen shahr. And I feel more alive when I do.

Shopping made easy

Everything you need in Tehran has its own neighborhood. Need lamps? Go to Lalezar Street, and you’ll be drowning in lamp stores. Need to pick out tiles for your bathroom? Bani Hashem is the place to go. Or maybe it’s books you’re looking for. Head to Enghelab Street. Glasses? Felestin Street. Gold and jewelry? Villa Street. Instead of shopping around at stores on opposite sides of town or a few select stores in a mall somewhere, what you need is clustered in one area, so you can come out of one store and pop in the one right next to it. Convenient, to say the least.

Mulberry trees

Mulberry trees are all along the highways and streets. It’s funny to see taxi drivers waiting between rides and battling over the last mulberry on the tree. But God forbid you ever have to park under one of them- they will destroy your car!

Parks and green spaces

Given what a massive city Tehran is, I love the attention that’s given to cultivating green spaces- however small they may be. I think the official number of parks in Tehran stands at around 800-900. There are a few huge parks, but this number also includes the smaller green bustân that might be on your street corner. Even the highways are beautifully landscaped.

Congrats on making it to the end! I’d love to hear from you now! What are the reasons why you love Tehran?

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