Updated: 8 July 2019I’m always surprised by the number of people who completely dismiss Tehran. “It’s polluted, it’s crowded, there’s nothing to see, it’s a tough city.” I was even warned…
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Tehran
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Updated: 8 July 2019The name is comprised of words that normally don’t belong together: Bâgh Muze Zendân-e Qasr. “Garden, Museum, Prison, Castle.” Qasr Prison Museum had long been on my Tehran…
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Updated: 8 July 2019Traveling to Iran as a vegan? You might think it’s near impossible in a land where kebabs are king. But I assure you, it’s not as bad as…
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I have a bucket list of all the things I want to do in Tehran. Of course what usually happens when you live in a city is that you never actually…
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Updated: 27 April 2018For me, District 12 in southern Tehran is the real Tehran. If the rest of the city is black and white, District 12 is in color. And while…
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Updated: 8 July 2019In Iran, tea is life. All day. Every day. It should be tâzeh dam (freshly brewed), lab riz (filled to the brim), lab suz (hot [enough to burn…
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Updated: 18 July 2019This post was chosen as one of 5 top posts from September 2017 for Lonely Planet Pathfinders. Only the title was changed from the original, L is for…